Whatsoever |
Whatsoever |
Extracts from a journal - recording a journey in the Sinai desert with school girls, teachers and Bedouin guides. A journey for our times Starting the journey We have escaped the lights of the coast , have turned away from the main road and are in a rocky valley. My thoughts are disjointed, trying to hang on to familiar realities because only so much change can be handled at once. Sleeping on the ground is strange enough, being this close to the surface – the base line, and being able to stretch out my hand and feeling sand and stones. It is strange not having walls. They have fallen away, like the sides of a box and there is suddenly this openness. Seeing the stars, the only way to handle the enormity seems to be to see them as a surface, but perhaps also a counterpane. There is the quiet sound of the small fire the Bedouin made : a flickering warm sound giving little lights of encampment. Bright moonlight – a coating of silver on the rocks. It looked like a layer of shining fine sand. The movement of the moon – it end the nights high in the sky. Sinai – by moonlight. I can’t see the lines on the page of my journal. The regimented life can, will, gradually recede. Although the lights of the coast are visible, lying here I can’t see them. There is a spooky mist developing. Unusual and unexpected. The girls’ chatter comes in waves. The feel of the breeze warm. This place is here. We are passing and ephemeral but this place stays. It is amazing how can space seem so enclosing and give such assurance. I ask the Lord for health for our party and that those at home will not have cause to worry and that each of them will be allowed to be open to God here and His enfolding, caring arms. The God of grace go with us – in this place where God is. To the coast We wake up in a rocky valley, hills rising from the flat plain and sharp ground. We were driven to a small nascent coastal resort and sat in the shade of shelters on cotton rag mats then changed into swimming costumes and swam in the blue water with bright unbelievable coloured fish hidden below - a place of riches. Then we took a long walk along the coast dodging the splashing spray, stopping frequently to drink water. The last section hard, all were now silent, just walking. We were leaving behind, cutting loose, in a small but significant way, the bounds of the west. There was long bumpy ride in jeeps across wide plains, then into the sandstone desert to arrive, just as the sun set, in a sandy valley with pink rocks and little shrubs. A fire was lit and then one by one, out of the dark, the Bedouin arrive with their camels. By the time the wake up in the morning fourteen camels have arrived along with the chief to welcome us and a deaf man to sell us the bead necklaces his mother made. These are people who are adjusted to their place. Everything is suited – clothes, animals, crafts and strong wiry children. Hard rocky places The next day we came to a Bedu encampment with some houses made in the rock. We were offered sweet tea and meet sweet children selling us bright beads. Then canyon, cleft in rock. You really could hide in the cleft in the rock as the glory of the Lord passes by. Smooth rocks. Kind hands leading us down. Each place marked, where to place feet. Step by step guided. A night of good sleep – waking and really not knowing where I was. Sand stone curved rock. Morning fragile sickness- being cared for – solicitous companions. But therefore being very locked into my body, but perhaps that is part of the one day at a time – a simple acceptance waiting daily for the blessings of the Lord. Following the leader In the morning, breaking camp with the camels – red light on the hills, suddenly flooding the valley. All feeling much more adjusted to this extraordinary way of life. The leader on his camel – following him up the valley, following the leader. Dependency – he knows the way. He leads to safe places where miracles of food and water and rest can take place. And occasionally the little child leading – a child in the desert leading and knowing. Nawamis After another ride we come to Nawamis – 5000 year old huts perched on the top of a hill overlooking the ancient camel trail. The word means mosquito. They may have been built to hide from them in ancient wetter times, or they were for storage of crops or perhaps, most likely, burial mounds, where the bones were stored. On this hill these stones have watched so many people pass – aeons – each pacing, going the way they needed to go. They are built in a rounded way to mimic the weathered rocks and so have withstood for so long. The structure is designed to be strong and stable. We sat under a tent of camel hair and were served mint tea. The ladies, including Sabah’s wife, come and shake hands and sell us their bracelets and necklaces. Then we come again via steep slopes to a sheltered sandy place – but the only shade at midday is under a little curve of rock – or in the shade of rattan bushes. Onward to a beautiful camp with pink stones. Caring girls, lovely food and good, good night’s sleep although waking up in the night very cold and dew condensing on the sleeping bag from my breath. Today the camel seems a real friend, a dignified lady with a calm sad-eyed young man leading her who took time in front of us all to pray at lunch time. Riding became easier with better padding. We went to a small rocky valley that has been cleared of sand by a summer work party to leave rock basins that they hope, one day, when it eventually rains, will fill with water and act as a watering place for the camels. Perhaps maybe fruit trees may grow. After lunch most of the bedu packed up to leave. We took a photo of them all and they all shook hands. Tamsin sorted out their tips. They smiled – it seemed like a happy arrangement. Little Hamid ran down the sandy slope a little later and had his picture taken by the camel. Now all is quiet – we await the jeeps. This morning we got up at 6, ate breakfast quickly and packed up the jeep. We drove a short distance over sand then onto the road up into the mountains, passing signs to Cairo. A boy rode bare back on a donkey to school. Transition We packed our bags and got organised. Little children, leading black hairy goats , appeared and wanted to sell bracelets. Then we drove down, about 1000 m from the plateau, past Sheikh Hamid’s ‘office’ – a tent near the road – past the multi-national force barracks, down to the settled plain – huge pylons bringing electricity and new fresh development. We arrived at a beach hotel and straw umbrellas, little round beach huts, salty lapping sea – a palm fringed beach with mountains behind. Coral and superb fishes are in the sea – salty, difficult to negotiate but spectacular. We spend a long lazy day and gradual return to the usual world. I wanted to say ‘normality’ but after this time what is normal? I wanted to say ‘old world’ but this is old, timeless world. I bought a scarf of sandstone coloured cloth to remind me of the pink glowing sandstone. The context from the Bible Theme – stars, stillness and shedding baggage. The Biblical account of the Children of Israel in Sinai - escaping from slavery. Thousands of Israelites were in slavery in Egypt. Moses returned there and saw the suffering of his people. He had Things with Pharaoh and eventually he persuaded him to let the people go. Led by Moses and instructed by God they celebrate the Passover and then left behind most of their belongings at escape towards the desert. The whole of pharaohs army was following them with hundreds of chariots. There was noise and confusion and anger. Moses had to calm them down : they had to be still then they were able to proceed Exodus 14:13-14 Moses answered the people, “Do not be afraid. Stand firm and you will see the deliverance the Lord will bring you today. The Egyptians you see today you will never see again. The Lord will fight for you; you need only to be still.” Exodus 14:21-22 Then Moses stretched out his hand over the sea, and all that night the Lord drove the sea back with a strong east wind and turned it into dry land. The waters were divided, and the Israelites went through the sea on dry ground, with a wall of water on their right and on their left. Reflections on the journey
Satellite images of the Sinai Peninsula
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WhatsoeverThe posts are 'postcards' on my journey through faith and art. The name 'Whatsoever' comes from Philippians 4:8 in the Bible : Categories
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