Whatsoever |
Whatsoever |
Extracts from a journal - recording a journey in the Sinai desert with school girls, teachers and Bedouin guides. A journey for our times Living in Community In the desert you must live in community. We were seventeen people : an Egyptian guide, a leader from the tour company, three teachers and thirteen girls In this community all have a task, each plays a part and can then enjoy relaxed cooperation. Mix of cultures Tonight was a birthday celebration for one of the Bedouin, Amir. There were makeshift token presents created and then together singing, nursery rhymes, bedu repetition songs drumming on a plastic container, hokey cokey and mad dancing. Such a strange clash of cultures by firelight on Halloween. Then we reached All Saints day – safe in the Lord’s hands again. One of the girls is frail today but wants to continue on her camel. As we wait preparations go on around us: saddles on camels, loads assembled and arranged, English women perched on top. There was a long ride in the afternoon, over and up; dark craggy valleys then up steep paths that the camels somehow manage, even though complaining. We stopped at the top and quietly took in the view: wide and far and still and empty. Then we travelled down, gradually, slowly into sandstone. Gathering of clans We walked the last part of the path, watching rocks turn pink and red in the sunset. We came to a sheltered valley. Many jeeps had arrived. A gathering of the clans, it seems: Bedouin, us and two English doctors. A feast is prepared: a lamb slaughtered and boiled and served with rice and tomatoes and cucumbers. It is boney and fatty but where there is meat, very tasty. The elders sit and put the world to rights. The fleece is left (ready to be removed in the morning) Climbing the mountain We were climbing Mount Sinai, the mountain of God. It was hot and steep, not that far or difficult really, but daunting. The rules of the climb were clear – all stay together. The community of girls manage this together by sharing loads; talking to distract from problems; going at pace of slowest; the frail went at the front so surrounded; stoping frequently for water; leaders were at the front and back; glorying in achievements; one wanted to stop but all carried on; looking up occasionally to see where we were going; keeping to short term goals; looking back often to marvel at how far we have come; asking each other if we are OK. Context of the Bible
After leaving Sukkoth they camped at Etham on the edge of the desert. By day the Lord went ahead of them in a pillar of cloud to guide them on their way and by night in a pillar of fire to give them light, so that they could travel by day or night. Neither the pillar of cloud by day nor the pillar of fire by night left its place in front of the people. Later after the 10 Commandments have been given they set up a portable shrine or tabernacle to keep them there. And God’s presence was signified by the cloud. Exodus 33:9-10 As Moses went into the tent, the pillar of cloud would come down and stay at the entrance, while the Lord spoke with Moses. Whenever the people saw the pillar of cloud standing at the entrance to the tent, they all stood and worshiped, each at the entrance to their tent
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Extracts from a journal - recording a journey in the Sinai desert with school girls, teachers and Bedouin guides. A journey for our times ....... The company who organised the trip was called Wind Sand and Stars : such a suitable name for this place of wide plains, weathered soft sand and stars filling the clear night sky. Poem of Place Clean soft sand, red rocks, camels waiting. Animals strong, sinewy, Strong enough to hold a paraphernalia of brightly coloured bags, wooden cartons full of our food – and then each of us, hoisted up, up onto our ‘ships’ Padding over hard rocks and soft sand- up and down, nothing is a barrier. on through smoothly changing views different coloured rocks, different everything. So little vegetation, no ‘clutter’ of humans, every process is visible. On through sandstone hills – smooth rocks, curving gently carved by the wind and sand. A hard night – Dreams odd, frequent waking but back to sleep again quickly The stars shone down on rocks and bushes. Morning waking unsteady, righted by water and food and a shade-giving hat. The camel now more of a companion – the strain of the saddle acceptable – and the ride through beautiful curved sandstone rocks, open plains and pink precipices was …I don’t know...... but I did start singing hymns – praise was possible on this Sunday morning. A place of peace FIELD GUIDE Evidence of life in the dry desert place Black and white bird hopping on rocks; storks migrating in formation; ravens; wagtails; camels of course; lizards. Flies, ticks, moth/butterfly; bee/hornet; big ants; sand coloured spiders Evidence of mouse or gerbil prints, fox hole, hare prints and possibly snake holes Plants: broom like; little paper flowers with jointed stalks; desert melon; palm trees Colours amidst the rocks and sand Blue, blue sky; white sandstone – layers and fossilised coral; brown/red sandstone with basted holes and white beneath; black blocks. Red, deep red. Grey like slater; pink speckled granite. Gentle green of bushes; deep green of oasis. Camels at home here - some brown others white, the real colours of camel hair. The traditional saddle bags – red blue and a little green. The pale worn wood of the saddle bags and a mixture of worn plastic, old rugs, bits of cloth for padding Bedouin who live here clothes – Sabah’s brown jacket. Camel boy who won the race in grey blue tunic. Grubby but pale blue tunics of the others. Little Ibrahim’s white torn tunic. My camel driver’s red brown soft jacket and brown tunic and red and white head scarf. Names of places we have slept – S of Nawamis near G Metamir; Palea el Gibi; Gebel Unm Ushtan; Gebel Mehroam (sand dune); Gebel Mureinh.; Gebel Ghilim The context from the Bible Still small voice of calm
Reminder of the story of Elijah on Mount Horeb. 1 Kings 19:11-13 The Lord said, “Go out and stand on the mountain in the presence of the Lord, for the Lord is about to pass by.” Then a great and powerful wind tore the mountains apart and shattered the rocks before the Lord, but the Lord was not in the wind. After the wind there was an earthquake, but the Lord was not in the earthquake. After the earthquake came a fire, but the Lord was not in the fire. And after the fire came a gentle whisper. When Elijah heard it, he pulled his cloak over his face and went out and stood at the mouth of the cave. Then a voice said to him, “What are you doing here, Elijah?” of the story of Elijah on Mount Horeb. Extracts from a journal - recording a journey in the Sinai desert with school girls, teachers and Bedouin guides. A journey for our times Starting the journey We have escaped the lights of the coast , have turned away from the main road and are in a rocky valley. My thoughts are disjointed, trying to hang on to familiar realities because only so much change can be handled at once. Sleeping on the ground is strange enough, being this close to the surface – the base line, and being able to stretch out my hand and feeling sand and stones. It is strange not having walls. They have fallen away, like the sides of a box and there is suddenly this openness. Seeing the stars, the only way to handle the enormity seems to be to see them as a surface, but perhaps also a counterpane. There is the quiet sound of the small fire the Bedouin made : a flickering warm sound giving little lights of encampment. Bright moonlight – a coating of silver on the rocks. It looked like a layer of shining fine sand. The movement of the moon – it end the nights high in the sky. Sinai – by moonlight. I can’t see the lines on the page of my journal. The regimented life can, will, gradually recede. Although the lights of the coast are visible, lying here I can’t see them. There is a spooky mist developing. Unusual and unexpected. The girls’ chatter comes in waves. The feel of the breeze warm. This place is here. We are passing and ephemeral but this place stays. It is amazing how can space seem so enclosing and give such assurance. I ask the Lord for health for our party and that those at home will not have cause to worry and that each of them will be allowed to be open to God here and His enfolding, caring arms. The God of grace go with us – in this place where God is. To the coast We wake up in a rocky valley, hills rising from the flat plain and sharp ground. We were driven to a small nascent coastal resort and sat in the shade of shelters on cotton rag mats then changed into swimming costumes and swam in the blue water with bright unbelievable coloured fish hidden below - a place of riches. Then we took a long walk along the coast dodging the splashing spray, stopping frequently to drink water. The last section hard, all were now silent, just walking. We were leaving behind, cutting loose, in a small but significant way, the bounds of the west. There was long bumpy ride in jeeps across wide plains, then into the sandstone desert to arrive, just as the sun set, in a sandy valley with pink rocks and little shrubs. A fire was lit and then one by one, out of the dark, the Bedouin arrive with their camels. By the time the wake up in the morning fourteen camels have arrived along with the chief to welcome us and a deaf man to sell us the bead necklaces his mother made. These are people who are adjusted to their place. Everything is suited – clothes, animals, crafts and strong wiry children. Hard rocky places The next day we came to a Bedu encampment with some houses made in the rock. We were offered sweet tea and meet sweet children selling us bright beads. Then canyon, cleft in rock. You really could hide in the cleft in the rock as the glory of the Lord passes by. Smooth rocks. Kind hands leading us down. Each place marked, where to place feet. Step by step guided. A night of good sleep – waking and really not knowing where I was. Sand stone curved rock. Morning fragile sickness- being cared for – solicitous companions. But therefore being very locked into my body, but perhaps that is part of the one day at a time – a simple acceptance waiting daily for the blessings of the Lord. Following the leader In the morning, breaking camp with the camels – red light on the hills, suddenly flooding the valley. All feeling much more adjusted to this extraordinary way of life. The leader on his camel – following him up the valley, following the leader. Dependency – he knows the way. He leads to safe places where miracles of food and water and rest can take place. And occasionally the little child leading – a child in the desert leading and knowing. Nawamis After another ride we come to Nawamis – 5000 year old huts perched on the top of a hill overlooking the ancient camel trail. The word means mosquito. They may have been built to hide from them in ancient wetter times, or they were for storage of crops or perhaps, most likely, burial mounds, where the bones were stored. On this hill these stones have watched so many people pass – aeons – each pacing, going the way they needed to go. They are built in a rounded way to mimic the weathered rocks and so have withstood for so long. The structure is designed to be strong and stable. We sat under a tent of camel hair and were served mint tea. The ladies, including Sabah’s wife, come and shake hands and sell us their bracelets and necklaces. Then we come again via steep slopes to a sheltered sandy place – but the only shade at midday is under a little curve of rock – or in the shade of rattan bushes. Onward to a beautiful camp with pink stones. Caring girls, lovely food and good, good night’s sleep although waking up in the night very cold and dew condensing on the sleeping bag from my breath. Today the camel seems a real friend, a dignified lady with a calm sad-eyed young man leading her who took time in front of us all to pray at lunch time. Riding became easier with better padding. We went to a small rocky valley that has been cleared of sand by a summer work party to leave rock basins that they hope, one day, when it eventually rains, will fill with water and act as a watering place for the camels. Perhaps maybe fruit trees may grow. After lunch most of the bedu packed up to leave. We took a photo of them all and they all shook hands. Tamsin sorted out their tips. They smiled – it seemed like a happy arrangement. Little Hamid ran down the sandy slope a little later and had his picture taken by the camel. Now all is quiet – we await the jeeps. This morning we got up at 6, ate breakfast quickly and packed up the jeep. We drove a short distance over sand then onto the road up into the mountains, passing signs to Cairo. A boy rode bare back on a donkey to school. Transition We packed our bags and got organised. Little children, leading black hairy goats , appeared and wanted to sell bracelets. Then we drove down, about 1000 m from the plateau, past Sheikh Hamid’s ‘office’ – a tent near the road – past the multi-national force barracks, down to the settled plain – huge pylons bringing electricity and new fresh development. We arrived at a beach hotel and straw umbrellas, little round beach huts, salty lapping sea – a palm fringed beach with mountains behind. Coral and superb fishes are in the sea – salty, difficult to negotiate but spectacular. We spend a long lazy day and gradual return to the usual world. I wanted to say ‘normality’ but after this time what is normal? I wanted to say ‘old world’ but this is old, timeless world. I bought a scarf of sandstone coloured cloth to remind me of the pink glowing sandstone. The context from the Bible Theme – stars, stillness and shedding baggage. The Biblical account of the Children of Israel in Sinai - escaping from slavery. Thousands of Israelites were in slavery in Egypt. Moses returned there and saw the suffering of his people. He had Things with Pharaoh and eventually he persuaded him to let the people go. Led by Moses and instructed by God they celebrate the Passover and then left behind most of their belongings at escape towards the desert. The whole of pharaohs army was following them with hundreds of chariots. There was noise and confusion and anger. Moses had to calm them down : they had to be still then they were able to proceed Exodus 14:13-14 Moses answered the people, “Do not be afraid. Stand firm and you will see the deliverance the Lord will bring you today. The Egyptians you see today you will never see again. The Lord will fight for you; you need only to be still.” Exodus 14:21-22 Then Moses stretched out his hand over the sea, and all that night the Lord drove the sea back with a strong east wind and turned it into dry land. The waters were divided, and the Israelites went through the sea on dry ground, with a wall of water on their right and on their left. Reflections on the journey
Satellite images of the Sinai Peninsula
A race or a revelation? The past three days have been all about the ‘Race to the White House’. The BBC, CNN, Washington Post have all talked about the tally of votes for Biden and Trump as if it is a tense horse race with one of them edging towards the finishing line. But this narrative actually gives a false impression. Although the every changing tally of votes looks as if something is being built, actually the event, the truth has already happened. The reality is there but hidden. A certain number of votes have been cast for each person. All we are watching is the gradual revealing of that truth. Whoever has won or lost is already determined- we just have to (slowly,nervously) watch as the results are revealed.. Imagining the process
As a child I would love a magic painting book - where just painting with water would somehow reveal an image. I made something similar using digital drawing apps - a layer of cream placed over an image of stones. I then erased parts of the overlaying cream to reveal what looks like stepping stones : a gradual, rather pleasing revelation of some of the full picture underneath. What have these three days taught us? The process of finding out what is already there (ie who will be the next President of the USA) has taught us all to be patient, to respect the process and to appreciate that revelation of the part may be misleading at times. The whole truth, the final result, will only be known when all the ballots are counted. Keep on looking, the Alps will appear So we need to keep on counting, keep on looking, keep on gradually seeking little corners of the whole truth. We need to trust that the mists will gradually clear. Years ago, staying in a room perched high over Lake Como, I witnessed a wonderful process whereby, over the course of several days, the misty indistinct outlook gradually was transformed and the Alps appeared. |
WhatsoeverThe posts are 'postcards' on my journey through faith and art. The name 'Whatsoever' comes from Philippians 4:8 in the Bible : Categories
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