Whatsoever |
Whatsoever |
Extracts from a journal - recording a journey in the Sinai desert with school girls, teachers and Bedouin guides. A journey for our times. The Monastery of St Catherine’s sits at the foot of Mount Sinai. There has been a Christian community there for over one and a half thousand years and marks the place where traditionally God met Moses in the burning bush, and where Moses later descended the mountains with the ten Commandments from God. The first church was built here by Helen, the mother of Emperor Constantine. Later, in the 6th Century Justinian built the fortress walls to protect the community and pilgrim steps were carved up from the monastery to the top of the mountain. The tradition is that the bones of St Catherine (who was a early martyr for her faith) were found nearby and so this is how the place got its name. In an area where many people follow Islam the witness of this Christian community has continued, aided by the fellowship and support of the local Bedouin tribes. Visiting the monastery - my journal extracts Last night coming down from the mountain at dusk – all quiet, silent, still. The rocks pink. The monastery walls, because they are hewn from the same rocks and have weathered too, seem part of the landscape, a haven, a true ‘protectorate’ – safe and secure. This morning I am sitting watching the sun capture and lighten the enclosed world of buildings inside the monastery walls. This fortress has remained for so many years, collecting its secrets, guarding its treasures, providing refuge and worship in a harsh and difficult land. The twentieth century comes and swirls around it, just as other centuries have – but at the heart is truth and faith, a burning bush that spoke, the LORD – I am. The bones of a lady who believed unto death – because Jesus was more important than anyone and anything. This morning there are crowds of course, and yet as we enter the low dark door through the thick walls we enter another world. Centuries of prayer; the ‘burning bush’ and its fire extinguisher; he wooden struts higgledy piggledy out of the walls; the additions of more and more buildings snuggled inside those safe walls. The church is a glorious miracle and I feel the imperative to cross myself. The huge, many-branched lanterns, incense holders, ostrich eggs above, glinting gold of icons wherever you turn. The worn wooden choir stalls. The ancient carved doors preserved in the desert air. The black robed monks tolerantly guiding this mass of modern visitors hoping, I suppose, for some touch of God on them. Marble floors, stars on green sky on the ceiling. Worn rich carpet. Huge cross high above and then behind mysterious, tantalising, the mosaic of the apse. Our guide sees the one monk she knows, Father Justin, and he gathers us and takes us all down the side, behind the screen, and with real love explains a little of the mosaic. It is so clear, so obvious and transmits so much. The wonderful blues behind Christ, the waiting prophets, the flanking mosaics of Moses and bush and tablets and the apostles and prophets and King David surrounding. He explained how it had over the years become dirty but was cleaned to revel all its glory. He said how early in the morning and particularly in springtime light gradually catches the glass and it, moment by moment, comes to life. He took us into the back chapel of St James, the chart on the wall delineating saints’ days and therefore which icon should be displayed. He then allowed us to look into the little dark secluded ‘chapel of the burning bush’ – blue and white tiled, thick carpets, huge chair for the reader, small lowly humble altar. There have been sixteen centuries of prayer here. Mass is celebrated each Saturday – Moses’s holy day – and always you must take off your shoes, standing on holy ground. Outside, one of the girls was tearful, unexplained but I did what felt instinctive – hugs and tissues and encouraging her to cry and I prayed. She wanted to go back into the church, eventually, which we did and then spent time looking at the icons – Peter and Paul, heads together. Mary and virgin saints, stern Nicholas, 6th century encaustic of the kind, smiling Jesus. Monks ascending the ladders, resisting the downward temptations. Stories of the Bible lovingly depicted in paint. Coming down the steps by the church a black -robed monk with a Bedouin carrying parcels. Context of the Bible Before the crossing of the Red Sea God met Moses and talked to him about reliance. The place where this happened has traditionally believed to be at the foot of the mountain, today covered by Saint Catherine’s monastery, God met Moses. God knew that his people needed rescuing and he was going to provide everything they needed to be free. Exodus 3:1-5 Now Moses was tending the flock of Jethro his father-in-law, the priest of Midian, and he led the flock to the far side of the wilderness and came to Horeb, the mountain of God. There the angel of the Lord appeared to him in flames of fire from within a bush. Moses saw that though the bush was on fire it did not burn up. So Moses thought, “I will go over and see this strange sight---why the bush does not burn up.” When the Lord saw that he had gone over to look, God called to him from within the bush, “Moses! Moses!” And Moses said, “Here I am.” “Do not come any closer,” God said. “Take off your sandals, for the place where you are standing is holy ground.” Moses went back to that mountain for an encounter with God. Exodus 19:1-8 On the first day of the third month after the Israelites left Egypt---on that very day---they came to the Desert of Sinai. After they set out from Rephidim, they entered the Desert of Sinai, and Israel camped there in the desert in front of the mountain. Then Moses went up to God, and the Lord called to him from the mountain and said, “This is what you are to say to the descendants of Jacob and what you are to tell the people of Israel: 'You yourselves have seen what I did to Egypt, and how I carried you on eagles' wings and brought you to myself. Now if you obey me fully and keep my covenant, then out of all nations you will be my treasured possession. Although the whole earth is mine, you will be for me a kingdom of priests and a holy nation.' These are the words you are to speak to the Israelites.” So Moses went back and summoned the elders of the people and set before them all the words the Lord had commanded him to speak. The people all responded together, “We will do everything the Lord has said.” If you are interested in finding out more information about St Catherine's monastery see : https://www.sinaimonastery.com www.saintcatherinefoundation.org
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WhatsoeverThe posts are 'postcards' on my journey through faith and art. The name 'Whatsoever' comes from Philippians 4:8 in the Bible : Categories
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